It’s hard to say what we liked best at Hostal Buenviaje. Was it the beautiful garden setting, or the fantastic home-cooked meals, or hosts Naty and Lester themselves? Remedios is a great low-key alternative to the bustle and hucksterism of some of Cuba’s tourist towns: it has a beautiful church, great little museums and warm, open, friendly people with absolutely no ulterior motives! And it’s also a good jumping-off point for the beaches to the north. But if we do return someday—as we would love to do—the main attraction that brings us back will be the incomporable people and accommodations at Hostal Buenviaje.